What is a Telephoto Lens – and Why It’s Best for Portraits and Headshots
This image was captured at 100mm: A telephoto focal length.
There is a certain look that people associate with “professional” images of people. Most assume that this look is produced by a high-end or “professional” camera body. But in my experience, the “professional” look is primarily influenced by two other critical factors: lighting and lenses. Yes, advanced cameras can offer useful features, but they aren’t the main reason some portraits look polished and refined.
Even with natural light alone—no external flash or fancy light modifiers—it’s completely possible to achieve professional-looking portraits. The key is understanding how the distance between the camera and the subject influences facial proportions and overall image quality. This effect is commonly referred to as the “telephoto effect.”
How Distance Defines the “Professional” Look
The KO-140M - a highly-specialized telephoto art lens
The term “telephoto effect” refers to the visual compression and flattering perspective that occurs when you stand farther away from your subject and use a longer focal length. When someone steps into a professional studio and sees a sizable telephoto lens pointed at them from a distance, they often assume the camera must be extremely powerful. However, it’s really the distance—and the resulting perspective—that flatters facial features.
This phenomenon is misunderstood by many because they think it’s tied solely to telephoto or “zoom” lenses. The truth is that if you used a high-quality wide-angle lens from the same distance and then cropped or enlarged the image to mimic a telephoto framing, you would see a similar kind of perspective change. The critical difference is that such a heavy crop drastically reduces detail, because only a small portion of the original image is used. By contrast, when you frame your subject correctly using a true telephoto lens, you capture maximum resolution from the start, without throwing away pixels in post-processing.
In simpler terms: the magic of the telephoto effect is that it lets you stand back while still filling the frame with your subject, helping keep the nose from protruding and giving the jawline a more pleasing shape. Because of this, telephoto lenses create an immediately recognizable look that people often describe as “professional.”
Why Telephoto Lenses Are So Effective
Telephoto lenses excel at capturing people in a way that wide-angle lenses simply can’t match for headshots or close-up portraits. Here’s why I believe they are the best for photographing people:
Flattering Facial Proportions: When the subject is farther away, features like the nose appear smaller relative to the rest of the face, and the jaw can look more defined. This balanced facial rendering is a hallmark of telephoto portraiture.
Detailed Close-ups: A telephoto lens focuses the subject on the full area of the camera’s sensor. Unlike cropping a wide-angle shot, there’s no sacrifice in pixel density. This means you capture a high level of detail in your subject’s face, hair, and eyes.
Comfort for the Subject: People often feel uneasy when the camera is too close. Being able to stand a few feet (or several yards) away allows your subject to relax, which comes across in their expression and posture.
Isolation from the Background: Telephoto lenses make it easier to achieve a pleasing background blur. By compressing the scene, the subject remains the focal point of the image, and any distracting elements behind them become less noticeable.
All of these factors combine to create what viewers identify as a professional portrait. The overall sense of polish usually comes down to how well the face is rendered and how much the subject stands out from the background, which longer focal lengths do extremely well.
The Sony G Master 70-200 2.8
Best Telephoto Lens Options
Selecting the best telephoto lens can be daunting, as it depends heavily on one’s budget and shooting style. If money isn’t an issue, I believe the most powerful and versatile telephoto lens type is a 70-200mm f/2.8, regardless of the camera brand. Each manufacturer—Canon, Nikon, Sony, and others—offers a high-end version of this lens, and they’re all excellent workhorses for portrait photography.
I personally run the Sony mirrorless system and use the Sony 70-200mm f/2.8 G Master for portraits. It’s extremely sharp, offers fast autofocus, and can handle a variety of lighting conditions. But this lens comes at a premium price, which isn’t always feasible as a first or second purchase for many photographers.
Here’s where prime lenses come into play. I can achieve virtually identical results with my collection of less expensive prime lenses, including a Nikon Nikkor 100mm f/2.5 and a 135mm f/2.8. These older primes, which can often be found used in the $100 to $200 range, deliver remarkable sharpness and produce a gorgeous background blur. They might require manual focus or an adapter on certain modern camera bodies, but the image quality can be on par with pricier zoom lenses when used properly. For those looking to dip their toes into telephoto portrait photography without spending a fortune, these primes are an ideal starting point.
f/2.8 vs. f/4: Which Aperture Is Right?
A common question among photographers who decide on a 70-200mm lens is whether they need the f/2.8 or if an f/4 version is enough. From my perspective, this largely depends on your lighting situation:
For Artificial Light: If you’re working in a well-controlled studio or with plenty of external lighting, an f/4 can be perfectly fine. Since you can rely on strobes or continuous lights, the smaller aperture won’t hold you back much.
Mix of Artificial and Natural Light: Many photographers, myself included, shoot in a variety of environments—some with artificial light and some with natural light. In these mixed scenarios, the extra stop of light from an f/2.8 lens is incredibly helpful for maintaining faster shutter speeds or lower ISOs, resulting in cleaner and sharper images.
An f/2.8 lens also gives a shallower depth of field, which can make the subject stand out more dramatically from the background. However, if budget constraints are significant, the f/4 versions of 70-200mm lenses tend to be more affordable and lighter in weight, making them easier to hand-hold for long sessions.
Natural Light for Professional Results
It’s a common misconception that studio-grade flashes and modifiers are absolutely necessary for professional headshots. In reality, natural light alone can produce exceptional portraits if used correctly. When you combine natural light with the telephoto effect, you can achieve a look that people typically associate with a high-end setup.
For instance, open shade—like the shadow of a building—provides even, diffused light that flatters most faces. When you stand far enough back with a telephoto lens, you still get that nice compression that hides or downplays any unflattering distortion. The resulting images look crisp and refined. Of course, controlling the position of the sun and the intensity of the light is harder outdoors, but the payoff is a more natural feel that can be very appealing in headshots and portraits.
Misunderstandings About the Telephoto Effect
One major misunderstanding is that the telephoto effect is something only telephoto lenses can do. Technically, if you stood in the same spot and used a wide-angle lens, then cropped the image extensively to match the telephoto framing, you’d see a similar change in perspective. But this technique introduces major drawbacks—most notably, a big drop in image resolution.
Even the best wide-angle lens will struggle to match the sharpness and fine detail that a telephoto lens can capture when the subject fills the entire image sensor. This is why I strongly recommend using a dedicated telephoto lens rather than trying to replicate that look through digital cropping.
Final Thoughts: Embrace the Telephoto Effect
In summation, the real magic behind a professional-looking portrait or headshot lies in how far away the subject is from the camera. The telephoto effect lets you stand a comfortable distance away, avoids distortion, and provides a pleasing, high-detail capture of the face. When you see that crisp, flattering look in a portrait, it’s rarely just the camera body. More often, it’s the strategic use of a telephoto lens paired with appropriate lighting—be that natural light or a controlled artificial setup.
So, if you’re looking to improve your portrait photography, the best advice I can give is: get as far away from your subject as possible and use the magic of the telephoto effect! Whether you invest in a high-end 70-200mm f/2.8 or opt for an older prime lens like my Nikon Nikkor 100mm f/2.5 or 135mm f/2.8, you’ll be amazed at how much your images transform. The details will be sharper, your subjects will look more natural, and you’ll finally achieve that timeless “professional” look that so many people desire in headshots and portraits.